This post describes the overhaul of the rear brake calipers and parking brakes on an E24 M635CSi. I had my calipers sandblasted and painted by a company specializing in this type of work but you may also do this yourself. 1) PREPARATION - Repair kits (piston rings, dust covers, parking brake shoes, disks) - Half-open 11mm wrench, open 14mm wrench (to disconnect brake lines) - 19mm socket (to remove calipers) - Large screwdriver (to remove brake pad retainer clip) - Allen keys (to remove disk M8 inner hex bolt and caliper guiding bolts) - Copper brush (to remove dirt from the brake line connection) - WD40 You may drain the brake fluid before starting the procedure. I did not, just sealed the brake lines with a plastic bag after disconnecting them. After reinstallation of the calipers, the brakes need to be bled anyway. 2) LIFT CAR Jack up the rear of the car. Remove the wheel. 3) REMOVE CLIP Use a large screwdriver to remove the brake pad retainer clip by p...

Hey there... This post is about the replacement of the Constant-Velocity joint on the output shaft of an E24. The same applies for example to an E23 or E28. This article does not describe the replacement procedure itself - for that, have a look at my other post:  Overhauling dust covers  - but zooms in on some particular differences between the original BMW C-V joint and the replacement kit VKJA 8810 from SKF. This kit comes fairly complete at an affordable price of around 80 Euros. Besides the C-V joint, it includes a dust cover, grease, sealant, and the Torx bolts plus reinforcement plates to install the output shaft to the car. The reason for replacement can be found in the inner race suffering from severe damage / wear marks. The BMW repair manual states that the new C-V joint must be installed with the inner race collar facing the shaft. The collar is an indication of the side of the race where the teeth have a small recess. The recess is needed because the...

This article describes how to check and eventually adjust the throttle valves on an M635CSi. This is by no means a straightforward procedure, requiring more than a weekend's hard work and at least some special tools, like a sliding vernier caliper (measuring accuracy of tenths of millimeters or better), a dial gauge able to measure disposition with an accuracy of hundredths of millimeters  plus mounting material, and a vacuum synchrotester (like Carbtune). For an overview of special tools and alternatives, check my other post: BMW special tools This procedure is not un-doable, but if your engine is running fine in idle, and responding nicely to the throttle, it's probably enough to just clean and lubricate the moving parts on the throttle bodies (shaft, bearings, pushing rods). Abbreviations: - TB Throttle Body - ICV Idle Control Valve 1) REMOVE ACCUMULATOR Start off by removing the Accumulator, as described in Overhauling the accumlator on an M635CSI 2) REMOV...